Egly-Ouriet Millésime Brut Champagne Grand Cru 'Ambonnay' 2013

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Robert Parker
Francis Egly has produced another profound Champagne with the 2013 Brut Grand Cru Millésime. If the monumental 2008 stands out for its power, structure and intensity, the 2013 is distinguished by its harmony, finesse and completeness; both vintages are very great wines but thus quite different in style. Wafting from the glass with scents of Anjou pear, crisp yellow apple, freshly baked bread, clear honey, iodine and fresh mint, it's full-bodied, ample and pillowy, with a layered, concentrated and effortlessly balanced core of fruit, uniting precision and sensuality to compelling effect. Girdled by racy acids and animated by a delicate pinpoint mousse, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish. Is this the most elegant wine Egly has produced to date? It's certainly among the most compelling that this high quality but initially underrated Champagne vintage has delivered.

Francis Egly has done it again. I've written at length in the End of April 2021 Issue 254 of The Wine Advocate about this estate's perfectionist methods and distinctive philosophy. Recent releases from Egly have been consistently nothing short of spectacular, but even so, I was unprepared for quite how good the 2013 vintage has turned out at this address. Initially somewhat slighted by the press, this cool, protracted growing season is increasingly winning recognition as a great Champagne vintage that, in the hands of good farmers, permitted an October harvest in good conditions. If 2008 chez Egly is a masterpiece of tightly coiled power and intensity, 2013 is the most elegant vintage I've tasted at this address, delivering a wine of striking concentration, yes, but also rare refinement and harmony. The quality of Egly's 2013, along with what a number of other producers were able to achieve, makes a very compelling case for the potential quality of this vintage in the region.

Dette champagnehus blev grundlagt lige efter anden verdenskrig, og har været eget af familien Egly lige siden. I dag er det den passionerede Francis Egly som står i spidsen for huset. Han har en yderst perfektionistisk tilgang til vinfremstillingen, og det er ham der for alvor har fået huset til at opnå kultstatus blandt verdens champagneelskere. Familien ejer i 9,7 hektar Grand Cru vinmarker – hovedsageligt Ambonnay men også en smule i Verzenay og Bouzy. De 7,7 hektar er Pinot Noir og 2 hektar er Chardonnay. Yderligere besidder de 2 hektar 1. cru marker i Vrigny udelukkende beplantet med Pinot Meunier. Derfra kommer 1. Cru vinen ”Les Vignes de Vrigny”. Den gennemsnitlige alder for vinstokkene er næsten 40 år. Der anvendes ingen pesticider i landbruget, som generelt er biodynamisk influeret.

Afhængig af høstens og vinens egenskaber varieres andelen af ​​fadenes alder fra 1 til 5 år siden, hvor vinen kommer til at ældes i varierende proportioner, og dermed kommer ethvert terroir til udtryk, i stedet for at følge en fast opskrift. Der har ikke været nogen malolaktisk gæring siden 1999 – dette for at bevare vinens friskhed. I modsætning til Champagne, der sælger sine flasker yngre og yngre, bygger Francis Egly efter sin far Michel tålmodigt sin kapacitet op, der giver ham mulighed for at sælge sine bruts efter fire års lagring og sine årgange efter seks år. Huset har en lav produktion på omkring 100.000 flasker, afhængig af år. Vinene er formidabelt koncentrerede med enormt lagringspotentiale.