Til glæde for samlere over hele verden opbevares et meget begrænset antal flasker Krug Vintage under ideelle forhold i husets kældre. De smages og vurderes, mens de venter på at blomstre til et nyt liv. Krug Vintage bliver derefter til Krug Collection og afslører en ny personlighed. Krug Collection Champagner er sande eksempler på tidssublimering; modenhed afslører skjulte facetter og dybde. Nye smage overrasker, mens gamle har fået struktur. Krug Collection er altid en vidunderlig opdagelse.
Vinous
It’s Friday, and that can only mean one thing. Champagne. This bottle of the 1989 Krug Collection is one of the very best I have had. The 1989 Collection is variable in quality, and quite a few examples have been on the mature side. Not this bottle. Its flavors are bright, focused and fresh for a Champagne of this age, with the classic super-fine Krug texture that invites a second glass and then a third as we look over the menu.
Robert Parker
Krug’s 1989 Brut Krug Collection represents their most recent in a long-running series of late-releases that feature a vintage they have decided is especially expressive after entering what they refer to as its “second life.” In theory, if you have ideal cellar conditions and bought Krug’s initial disgorgement of the 1989 vintage when it came on the market around a decade ago, then you have essentially the same wine today, though I have never been lucky enough to make the relevant direct comparison. Given the relative infrequency with which a vintage is “declared” by Krug, their “Collection” bottlings represent the remnants of an already elite band. But this 1989 represents the first re-release from the only series of three consecutive vintage bottlings – 1988-1990 – in Krug’s history. The mingling of saline, nutty, and caramelized notes in the nose – adumbrating this wine’s entire performance – is gorgeous. Butter-toasted hazelnuts, dried wild mushrooms, kelp, and cocoa mingle in a silken, mouthwateringly saline and savory matrix reminiscent of oyster liquor laced with fresh lemon juice (because, there is still a youthfully citric store of energy here). This finishes with correspondingly pronounced umami and with tangy vibrancy of citrus and salt. After a day open, the nutty elements become more piquant and walnut-like, but the smoky hints of oxidation remain balanced by citric and mineral elements and positively integrated into a mysteriously diverse show. The palate becomes plusher (perhaps in part due to diminishing mousse) and creamy in an almost whipped-cream fashion, yet the long finish continues to offer uncanny refreshment.
Krug er uden tvivl et af verdens mest eksklusive Champagnehuse. Domænet er beliggende i Champagne-regionen i det nordøstlige Frankrig, og blev grundlagt i 1843 af tyskeren Johann-Joseph Krug. Hans drøm var at lave den bedste af den bedste Champagne, som kunne frigives hvert år uanset de årlige variationer i klimaet. En drøm som helt klart er gået i opfyldelse den dag i dag. Joseph Krugs filosofi, var at man ikke skulle opdele husets Champagne i hierarkier, og denne tankegang fastholder Krug i dag, hvor huset tilbyder syv forskellige Champagner, alle med deres helt eget udtryk, men uden at være opdelt i bestemte hierarkier. I stedet er det antallet af Champagnen, der bestemmer prisfastsættelsen.
Selvom domænet i 1999 blev solgt til luksuskoncernen Louis Vuitton-Möet-Hennessy (LVMH), er det stadig et medlem af Krug familien, som leder Champagnehuset – nemlig Olivier Krug, som er den sjette generation af Krug familien. Dette sikrer at husets autenticitet lever videre, og at Krugs Champagne stadig bliver lavet efter grundlæggeren Johann-Joseph Krugs principper.
Krug er Champagne med individualitet og stor personlighed. Som den nuværende kældermester Julie Cavil siger det bedst ”Vores job er, i en slurk at genforene den mest komplette sensoriske oplevelse, en Champagne kan tilbyde”. Noget som man i den grad må sige, at de lykkes med gang på gang hos Krug.
Champagnen gæres altid på egetræsfade, hvilket giver den karakteristiske rige, fyldige og nøddeagtige smag. Champagnen fra dette legendariske hus ældes med ynde og bør nydes ligeså.
